Nearly 1,500 readers of TheHorse.com responded to a poll asking, “Did you design and/or build the fencing on your farm?”

• Yes: 66.19%  (973)
  
• Partially: 14.76%  (217)
  
• I board my horse(s): 14.22%  (209)
  
• No: 4.83%  (71)

Readers shared what they would change about their current fencing in the comments below.

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• Hire it out next time. Our fence has become nothing short of “Rural Performance Art” as it wiggles.
  
• None – our hand-built 5-foot tall cedar fences
  
• Drilled posts instead of pounding split rail
  
• Use a non-climb fence (knotted corners) instead the welded version.
  
• I’m in the process of it now and what a PITA!
  
• I would add turnouts directly from the stalls
  
• None
  
• The lay out and have where the fencing was placed.
  
• I would change to tape and use metal gates and covering over the metal post.
  
• Not use wire the mini stretches it and escapes and when it gets stretched it is a lot of work
  
• I would go all electric.
  
• Sturdier posts
  
• NEVER use Electrobraid!
  
• Smaller dry lot-bigger grass lot
  
• Would have had the fence contractor make it a little less height
  
• Wood posts, no climb fence, elec tape on top-no changes necessary
  
• No barbed wire on top
  
• Different paint application, one that would stay on for years not 2 or 3
  
• I put up Horse Guard fencing and would not change anything. I am pleased with it.
  
• I’d buy a farm.
  
• Wish it were a little higher
  
• I would not place button board so low. Would use electric rope instead to prevent leg injuries d
  
• I installed electrified 6-strand high tensile fencing with posts spaced 25 ft.
  
• I would go with poly products for longevity and looks
  
• None
  
• None
  
• I would change the wood fencing to something more permanent.
  
• I’d use double strand esp. at the post connectors.
  
• Round corners instead of square corners, already changed the highly used pastures.
  
• None
  
• None
  
• We used 6′ chain link has done well x 15 yr now need to renew now changing some lines to keep out g
  
• Install vinyl coated heavy duty type and pull all high tensile bare wire off
  
• Nothing
  
• Instead of one big fence split it so I can rotate pasture, also more gates!
  
• I probably would not make too many changes. I have the pasture divided into paddocks.
  
• Use tape so they can see it better
  
• None
  
• Happy to see mostly four board fencing but some tensile wire, which can be dangerous
  
• None
  
• Add electric twine to prevent chewing in wet weather
  
• Fences over 30 years old consisting have mostly barbed wire & cattle panels. Would replace with the
  
• Nothing
  
• All would be no-climb
  
• No wire fencing
  
• More gates
  
• Replace original aged field fencing with v-mesh topped by wood rail
  
• I would not use “v-mesh” again – except perimeter – definitely not in high pressure areas.
  
• Need more paddocks$$
  
• Add a stud panel for kicking and getting legs caught over the fencing
  
• Go with pipe
  
• Horse fence not barbed wire
  
• Make it double wire
  
• None
  
• NOT USE STEEL T- FENCE POSTS. THEY ARE NOTHING BUT A HAZARD TO THE HORSES.
  
• More weather resistance
  
• We designed it, but someone else built it.
  
• Stronger corner posts, paint t posts before use
  
• We have the hot rope fencing which works pretty well. Would like to do the board look plastic fence.
  
• Replace with metal fencing, no barbed wire. Didn’t know we would have horses so we put barbed.
  
• I would go with V fencing as much as I could. All new fences are done with this type now.
  
• Fenced when we bought the place
  
• Replace 90+ y/o fences – 3000 lf of it.
  
• Divide pasture
  
• vinyl fencing if i had the money!
  
• I wouldn’t use wire
  
• it’s high tensile wire, I hate it! I would put up diamond mesh and board fencing.
  
• hotwire the top rail
  
• Add another row of electric
  
• Don’t use pvc gates
  
• none
  
• none
  
• Replace post and rail with Fieldguard electric fencing – tough, safe, no maintenance!
  
• We cut down trees and made the posts and rails ourselves!
  
• put in real gates of metal
  
• I would not make any changes
  
• try to make it more deer proof
  
• use a different type of wire
  
• If I could afford it I’d do it all in pipe
  
• I would use all the electric rope type fencing and not the older type electric wire
  
• not to use wood.
  
• use wood for the rails
  
• We are currently adding hotwire around the top!
  
• make all of my fencing electrobraid (right now I have a combination of fence types)
  
• Use 5 ft instead of 4 ft
  
• None
  
• Use different material, the HDPE plastic fencing we purchased didn’t hold up due to cracking posts.
  
• The barn where I am now uses a bungy cord fence it is always falling off.the posts. I
  
• better repair
  
• I would put in two more gates
  
• I would replace all the oak board fence with Ramm fencing. Everywhere.
  
• track-style system;causes more movement & use center field for controlled grazing & grass preservatn
  
• None, 7 pipe corrals, 75 X 100 ft ea with shelters, one horse ea. Perfect!
  
• I would create truck friendly, accessiblity to all areas of the barn and property.
  
• put boards on the top to keep them from pushing the top down to eat the grass on the other side.
  
• Replace the barb wire with barbless.
  
• Use 4 board instead of 3 board around the perimeter. Fence off the driveway for easier deliveries.
  
• add electric to fences dividing pastures
  
• larger gates
  
• NONE
  
• We dipped the ends of presure treated 4×4’s into Henry’s after we painted the wood white.Change gate
  
• In the process of replacing older barbed wire with newer
  
• I would want a board rail on the top, it’s high tensil wire
  
• Go with 4 board rather than 3 board and put a face board on.
  
• None – it’s brand new as of 2007
  
• Would not have gone with Vinyl. Pops out of place to easily & hard to run hot wire
  
• none
  
• made of steel not wood
  
• Use HiTensile below ribbon, more wires (6) and more electric wires
  
• none
  
• I would lift the woven wire up in some places in order to weed eat.
  
• None
  
• putting in 4 board vs. woven wire
  
• Replace
  
• wooden posts instead of steel
  
• I’m happy with my system
  
• none
  
• Only the portable stalls
  
• We live in black prairie land, and it needs to be restretched!
  
• new cemented in corner posts
  
• All post & rail
  
• Add more pasture space
  
• electric rope to replace the tape, different insulators.
  
• No
  
• We use electric fence and wooden corrals.
  
• Would use a better quality post
  
• I would like to have more of the tape fencing and some nice posts
  
• None, I am very happy with it.
  
• everything would be tightened up and repaired if needed
  
• who can afford to have someone else install fencing in this economy?
  
• None
  
• Change from smooth hot wire to rope.
  
• none
  
• I would use electrobraid on all fences instead of just part of them.
  
• I would of had it continue around the whoe barn instead of just one side
  
• No need for hot wire after all.
  
• make area larger, build wood instead of barbed wire,
  
• get rid of barb wire
  
• have the corner posts sunk deeper when they were installed by a contractor. they are heaving out of
  
• none
  
• build more sturdy holding pens
  
• plan to switch to vinyl fencing
  
• horse pasture shares some fence with cattle fence .
  
• None
  
• use electric wire fencing, easy to repair, fig 8’d around insulators so whole fence wont come down
  
• None. I used electric rope, 4 strands, 13″ apart and LOVE IT!
  
• Add more electrobraid!
  
• no fence, all barbed wire
  
• new wood
  
• 4board (now 3) oak (now pressure treated pine) but $$$$$
  
• Make the paddock paradise track more narrow
  
• start all over with barbless wire or synthetic fencing
  
• chew inhibitor !
  
• Electric High Tensile Fencing with New Zealand Wire, keeps even the happiest horse in!
  
• I would still use board fencing but would fence and cross-fence the farm differently.
  
• I’m working on replacing the wooden fences for panels-less maintience
  
• I would not make any changes…We planned our new fencing with a lot of thought.
  
• For better grass-growing rotation, I may divide a large pasture into 2 sections.
  
• increase cross fences to allowbetter pasture management
  
• None
  
• Has to import Equimesh from the States. Needed safe fencing. It expensive!!
  
• None that I can think of. I have 5′ non-climb wire w/wood posts and toprail.
  
• Would change to electric braid if I could, but I can’t due to a dry run.
  
• Stretch 2×4 tight. 2nd contractor did a much better job of it.
  
• would add a strand of electric wire to keep horses off fence
  
• NO AT THIS TIME
  
• Built the barn too!
  
• I would have actually wood and electric fencing combined. Not one or the other only.
  
• None
  
• It takes a combination of type and they can get hurt in any of them.
  
• Vinyl, to limit replacement necessity.
  
• As we can afford it, we are putting up a more horse friendly fencing, no more barb wire
  
• My husband has a small sawmill and cuts all his own boards, so we have nice 3 board fencing everywhe
  
• With more $$, I’d update the no climb to wood.
  
• repair and clean
  
• more crossfencing
  
• nothing
  
• ensure proper connections on the electric portion and improve the grounding system
  
• $ No Climb…
  
• We used railroad ties as posts that lasted but use longer lasting rails rails.
  
• would use diamod wire or a board fence
  
• none
  
• Would love to have the welded pipe fencing.
  
• everything
  
• Be better prepared to deal with the neighbor’s cows across the fence, who are very hard on it
  
• split the pastures; that’s the plan for Saturday
  
• None. Took a chance on Finish Line fencing; the best decision we could have made. Awesome product!
  
• more cross-fencing
  
• We put up electro braid, it is easy and cost effective. Repair is simple.
  
• love our new fence – four rails wooden, no barb wire, very solid fence
  
• none really. we have hot wire which is safe and looks clean. would love to have white plastic though
  
• Get rid of the barbed wire!
  
• none, I use 10ft tall heavy chain link , buried 1 foot deep.
  
• superd amish built fence
  
• change out the t-posts with wood and move the fence in so I can mow around the outsid
  
• NONE
  
• no problems yet
  
• Metal rails to discourage beavers
  
• more area fenced
  
• I would not elevate the no climb fence off the ground.
  
• I would spend more money on higher quality fence
  
• it would be wood not barbwire
  
• Building a little at a time. I put up temp fences 1st and then perm later if I like the placement.
  
• I would change the top hot wire to more visible twine or rope.
  
• change board fence to a lower maintenance type like webbing
  
• I am always working on my fences, had to make them stronger!
  
• probably none: it’s only 4 mos. old!
  
• We are currently looking at re-doing the fencing as it is old and getting unsafe.
  
• Changes I made were wire fence along with 3 rails of 2×6 and hotwire along the top to impede leaning
  
• none
  
• Always a work in progress
  
• would use predator proof fencing-too many problems with replacing boards and rotted posts-oak boards
  
• I board at a friend’s house and she and I will be building a new wooden rail fence this summer
  
• take out steele and use wood
  
• I would put something stronger at the top of the wire fence
  
• none
  
• I would have put the electric tape up before they stretched out the horse fence
  
• I would use all electric tape and get away from the high maintenance of board fencing.
  
• As we replace boards, we are screwing them in instead of nailing-harder for my cribbing horse to pul
  
• all old fences to be removed
  
• have fewer but larger turnout paddocks
  
• round all the corners
  
• None
  
• none-my horses aer free range with border collies keeping them close to home
  
• I love my Electrobraid!
  
• Some of the electric fencing was in place, but I had to replace the majority of it
  
• Nothing
  
• combine smaller paddocks to make fewer, larger one
  
• no changes
  
• More wood fencing with electric tape along the inside
  
• more separations in the big pasture area
  
• split up one of the large pastures into2
  
• None! We have used Horse Guard for 12 years and still love it. Very safe, yet powerfully hot.
  
• replace all existing fence with wooden boards.
  
• We capped the top board but I’d cap the bottom board too next time to prevent chewing.
  
• ELECTRIC IN SOME PLACES
  
• Made the mistake of Vinyl on 1st paddock! New paddock has 5 strands of wire much more durable!
  
• None, High tensil electric is the way to go
  
• I chose PVC fencing & gates–PVC gates did not hold up, had to change to pipe gates.
  
• none
  
• make sure the corners are Big Sturdy wooden post
  
• I would like to get all panels
  
• Instead of just 3 rail board fencing, I would add red-top field fencing behind the boards.
  
• none
  
• Need to upgrade – new posts and re-stretch fencing.
  
• use different material for the runs
  
• bigger posts, more electrical tape, thicker boardsWould use more metal panels instead of pole fencing
  
• No 90-degree corners – they would all be rounded corners
  
• ROUNDED CORNERS INSTEAD OF SQUARE CORNERS
  
• electric tape on whole outside perimiter
  
• update-but cost too high
  
• none!
  
• All white vinyl with the house built in the in the center with a drive so I can always see my horses
  
• Material used
  
• None at this time
  
• More gates, larger gauge wire. Electric also on bottom strand.
  
• 4 board with bottom three boards with wire mesh
  
• There is wood fencing that doesnt last long at all and warps I would change to a PVC
  
• None. I have a combination of wood and electric.
  
• Don’t fence actual property line; hold back a few feet so neighbors don’t become a problem.
  
• clean up some trees to clear the line
  
• up grade it
  
• no split rail
  
• If I could afford it, I’d have used something besides barbed wire.
  
• absolutely no barbed!
  
• none
  
• Use oak instead of P.T. pine
  
• put in 3 rail board fencing and get rid of the electric fencing
  
• “Box S” 5 bar continuous fencing from Sunderman manufacturing-maintenance free!
  
• Replace wide tape with braided wire to minimize fraying and breaking in wind and ice
  
• stronger electric wire
  
• It is currently barbed wire and I would get rid of all that and go to a post fence or flex tape
  
• Add more access gates for tractor.
  
• I love my electric polyrope fencing with solar charger. It’s very economical & safe.
  
• board fence-cover top of boards with metal corner beading
  
• More steel stakes, wider tape
  
• I designed it with the help of a commercial installer, who did the actual work.
  
• I would have added electric to my 3 board fence when I first built it
  
• make it more permanent/stable
  
• Different materials, from Electric tape to vinyl, am doing it gradually
  
• I would replace all of it with the horse fence
  
• Upgrading to Ramm Fence
  
• none
  
• a gate
  
• change to all centaur/spur
  
• Cross Fencing with rails on the inside of the pasture.
  
• Make my borderline fences taller.
  
• Not fence but layout. I wud make ‘runs’ all around edge of land to encourage travel as in the wild
  
• Just fix everything that the horses have destroyed!
  
• stronger posts
  
• change and repair some of the hot wires on the boards. add an additional charger for each pasture
  
• none
  
• I would have set one of the boundry fences further out, which would have give the horses more room.
  
• I would like to have high tensil wire
  
• Just finished re-fencing and wouldn’t change a thing
  
• We move our fences a lot, it’s a pain but the horses appreciate the grass…
  
• We have wood and t-bar posts I would prefer all wood posts. We also only use electric fencing
  
• move to wire mesh, not barbed wire (don’t currently have probs w/it tho
  
• i would do the entire fence instead of 3/4 new..i would put in another gate by the driveway
  
• would like the white plastic railings for a better look with one strand of electric wire
  
• I mend my fence to minimize the damage. I would definitely top rail all fences.
  
• now it is all board and mesh…finally changed it from old electrobraid.
  
• 4 board instead of 3
  
• We’d have left 8′ or so between pastures so horses aren’t too close to each other
  
• wish I could afford pipe fence
  
• Minimal – make it a bit stronger
  
• electric
  
• rebuilding the corrals
  
• I would use 4 inch insulators on the hotwire atop our wood fence instead of 2 inch
  
• My dad helped me
  
• after the winter, I will take it down what is left of it, they demolished it
  
• need to chage the posts to a slightly larger diameter/better quality
  
• more visible top wire
  
• Make it taller, so they are less likely to reach over and fight w/another horse.
  
• replace electric with flex fencing
  
• more paddocks and better gates(ours are sliding planks.
  
• Barbed Wire
  
• more board fencing and fix the hotwire
  
• round or angle the corners for pasture fencing
  
• Barbed Wire, so they respect it.
  
• remove my wood corrals and use horse panels. the rest is in centaur fencing
  
• more board fencing
  
• Live stock fencing,and wooden posts. Just repair it, it’s too expensive to start over.
  
• Change the 8’spacing of non-climb horse fence to 6″, stays tighter at 6″.
  
• none
  
• I board. But when I get my own place I want to design it or at least like the one thats up
  
• If I could afford it, all would be 5′ 2×4 no climb with a board on the top.
  
• more electric fencing
  
• white, plastic rail
  
• I would add hotwire
  
• have 4 strands of high tensil with one hot wire.
  
• You can tell our earlier fences. Unever height, much harder to climb. Still better than droopy wires
  
• This summer we will fence 1 acre with log poles from the property and hot rope for my horse.
  
• change to electric cord and wood posts, not wire, metal posts
  
• None.
  
• Add a lot more, and make wooden fence towards the drive-way and road.
  
• none
  
• Love to have board fence my horse got leg caught in wire, had to be put down-severed flexor tendon
  
• use rails more in paddocks or more 4×4 lumber. Better and bigger posts
  
• 3 board treated wood to a top board with electrobraid.
  
• None, I use HiQual pipe panel
  
• I’d go with more hot wire, less board, to save on maintenance.
  
• None – love Electrobraid. Truly injury proof.
  
• we used high cyclone fencing as its safer than posts or wire.
  
• None so far it has worked out very well
  
• I love my fence and would make no changes
  
• I had a professional do it. High tensile smooth wire fencing is great! Been up for over 20 yrs!
  
• none
  
• Screw the boards on the inside of the fence.
  
• Wooden fencing
  
• Another water source
  
• None
  
• All of the fences would be modern, good looking electric fence
  
• 100% of it…
  
• I would NEVER put up vinyl PVC fence! I find it unsafe for horses. Cracks, breaks in cold weather
  
• we used electrobraid fence, absolutely love it. Blends in with the environment, horses respect it.
  
• Use all electric rope or braid rather than electric tape.
  
• We plan to add heavier posts and more “sight” boards.
  
• more fence
  
• Nothing
  
• Utilize 2×4 wire instead of the 4×4.
  
• electric fence 1-1/2inch tape
  
• add more electrobraid
  
• Fence is 22 years old; added
  
•  electric tape so the horses wouldn’t lean; wouldn’t change anything.
  
• Convert it all to non-climbable woven wire topped with 2 inch electric tape.
  
• get rid of the chainlink
  
• i would round off the corners
  
• I love my Electrobrade!
  
• we use electric rope and it works very well for us
  
• finish up the 3 board with electric on the inside…I have mules and they respect electric best.
  
• wood is too much upkeep, I will change to electrobraid
  
• non-electric wood fence
  
• Probably none; it works well as it is. We replaced most fencewire and removed some t-posts .
  
• none – I chose sheep tight, horse strong and dog strong 5 rail 2×6 board.
  
• change from wood to steel
  
• i have been upgrading all of my fencing to
  
• I would use polymer rail with wire imbedded instead of wood–which is a maintenance nightmare.
  
• I would use more cedar posts as H braces
  
• Add midrail
  
• Designed ours. Need one more gate from corral to barn!
  
• I should have put in wood fencing instead of electric tape.
  
• We started with wood fencing but found that the horses are very hard on wood. Now we do electric.
  
• I’d olace the gates closer to pathways to the barn–save us steps!
  
• Add another pen to hold new horses.
  
• More of it. We use pipe wood dry rots in AZ
  
• went w/cattle & 5-strand hi tensile. NO PROBS!
  
• different type
  
• None. We have vinyl fencing.
  
• None, we love our Horse Guard!
  
• added electric fencing to existing wire/post fencing
  
• New fencing is great – gradually replace old fencing
  
• Brace corner posts
  
• separate paddocks next to each other by space…
  
• prettier electric strands
  
• none
  
• part is Ramm and part is board. I would use all Ramm if that company was more customer friendly
  
• It needs to be stronger and a little higherand get rid of the barbed wire!
  
• high tensile, not my choice but already fences our 35+ acres
  
• none. some was here when we bought it, some we designed and someone else installed, will be adding
  
• make it safer, stronger, and electrify it
  
• No. Creosote treated lumber and 2×4 non-climb, Yeah!
  
• Replace old wire with electric braid.
  
• I would have braced the gates.
  
• Just built a new fence & made them 60 inches high instead of 48 inches. Much better for young horses
  
• No t-sposts
  
• none, very horse safe and Dog safe
  
• Would re-do arena/turnout
  
• Non-climb on r/r ties & Tee-posts, more up-right posts, taller tee-posts for hot wire.
  
• replacing webbed fence w/ no climb horse fence to keep dogs out & shoes on
  
• electric cord instead of wire
  
• none
  
• would NOT be barbed wire!
  
• I would have 4 rails instead of 3, put electric wire along the top rail
  
• I’d have the fence at my own farm!
  
• might like no-climb on the perimeter fence.
  
• We still and always need to replace different sections. It would be nice if posts lasted longer!
  
• Take out all the vynal and replace it with nonclimb horse fencing.
  
• make taller between adjacent tunout pens
  
• I used 3 board vinyl. I would use 4 and make it taller
  
• Put in more 2×4 mesh instead of polywire or PVC
  
• Get rid of the neighbors barbs and use no-climb
  
• none, electrified rope is safe and visible
  
• no
  
• I only have corrals but if I had the $ I would fence my 4 acres.
  
• I would make it like a track and field track, type fence from book Paddock Paradise by Jaime Jackson
  
• change from barb wire to other
  
• fence separate section of woods for hottest summer days
  
• not using plastic posts for horse tape
  
• I would take out all barb wire.
  
• none
  
• None
  
• rounded corners and a path left between the pastures so horses couldn’t reach each other
  
• No changes – I love my fencing
  
• None! I love my 4 board fence and my hubby for helping me install it
  
• None. I love my fence.
  
• none
  
• Nothing…my pipe fences are safe and attractive.
  
• Wouldnt chg a thing. White board with electic tape. First fence he hasn’t beat.
  
• Electrobraid is so easy to run and I believe the safest fencing there is!
  
• NO barbed wire but maybe electric instead. One cut to many with all the wire.
  
• no corners rounded angles
  
• expand it!
  
• Add a few extra t-posts and wider tape
  
• I used plastic Tensar, would use a monofilament or no-climb instead
  
• All Wood Fensing with net wire (2″x2″ openings) for added security
  
• put up more if we had the money for it
  
• less wood, more mesh
  
• Use all wood posts instead of pipe so can add hot wire easily between paddocks. Have more gates.
  
• I would plank fence verses wove wire and barbed wire
  
• would like to have split rail, instead of barbwire or field fencing.
  
• I would make no changes, we use horse safe field wire with electric to keep in Drafts.
  
• we put in the 3 board white vinyl fencing next time I would use 4 boards
  
• I put up board fencing about 10 years ago. If I did it over again I would put up cord fencing
  
• none
  
• Take out the barbed wire fence and put up a proper horse fence
  
• High tensile around 2 acres, needs crossfencing for better pasture mngmt.
  
• none
  
• Smaller grazing areas – rotation is an issue.
  
• none
  
• Just repairing winter damage.
  
• some posts not in concrete – would do that now
  
• more solid wood
  
• maze patterning with rocky areas to encourage more movement and build tough bare hooves
  
• I feel I have overbuilt it. I would have saved money by not using as many horizontal bars.
  
• I would use a “no climb” wire with smaller openings than the field-fence I have now.
  
• never use wood again
  
• Currently changing to electric white braided rope-looks good, easy to maintain, good visual barrier
  
• none
  
• I would put in more gates so I could go from pasture to pasture instead of one entry only
  
• More hotwire!
  
• i would not use fiberglass posts. steel lasts longer. (electric fence)
  
• None. I have no climb on the inside and wood rails outside. It is beautiful and functional.
  
• NOTHING. PLANNED OUT FIRST FOR FURTHER EXPANSION. LOVE MY FENCE. A LOT OF WORK, BUT WORTH IT.
  
• Hoping for a better one , some day.
  
• It cost a fortune, but I got what I felt was safest (woven wire, board at top, electric on top)!
  
• None! We LOVE Electrobraid!
  
• Unless you are rich, who ELSE is gonna put the fence up??
  
• Have pipe fencing
  
• replace remaining barbed wire perimieter
  
• Mostly just replacing old posts.
  
• I’d have someone else do it instead of me. 🙂
  
• If I had the money -all PVC fence!
  
• more of it
  
• It would all bebraided electric rope, or good board fencing – with no roon to stick the head thru.
  
• none
  
• We moved to a partially fenced farm.
  
• Better gates, initially. Fence is still solid; gates already need replacement.
  
• I wouldn’t use wood fencing. Maintainence and Repair costs are too costly.
  
• None
  
• None. I had black cyclone fencing – 5 feet high – installed.
  
• more vinyl
  
• 4 rail black plank around barn and electro braid around pasturecombination of jack leg (treated poles) and no climb fence.
  
• Would add top pole on no climb
  
• We iput in a Horse Guard electric tape fence, plastic sleeves over T-posts. Looks good and it’s safe
  
• Have board & steel pipe fence. We built part of the board fence.
  
• Use t-posts with top electric fence instead of line posts and top rail.
  
• remove old barbed wire
  
• YES! All by myself. Boyfriend only knows computers.
  
• Would have originally installed pvc fencing
  
• Nothing, we finally have secure fencing with electric just to deter leaning on or eating it.
  
• Wider gates for tractor
  
• I would not use wood rails. It looks nice but has more maintenace.
  
• installed electra-braid — love it — make it taller to accomodate taller horses
  
• Some was existing, some by pros, we built some new & reno’d other ourselves
  
• would have pipe fencing if i could afford it.
  
• replace old sections with early signs of deterioration
  
• add electric to the top board all around
  
• get more when I can afford it
  
• I’d do no clime wire instead of 4 board.
  
• more space
  
• 5 board wood
  
• on someone else’s land – so you take what is there
  
• use poly posts instead of wood posts
  
• None – we did a lot of research before building ours and everyone that visits our farm admires it!!
  
• a 1100 mile trip to New Mexico new fences pipe, 10 foot raise patio around feeders maybe roughcement
  
• add a sight line to my field fence and t posts fencing
  
• putting in permanent fences rather than temp fencing the first time
  
• Instead of having top rail and uprights only as pipe, and the rest cable, we would make it all pipe
  
• re do most of it..
  
• braided mesh & hot line across top
  
• to build better fence
  
• none-5 strand high tensile and tape
  
• the type and size of fenced area
  
• put wooden fence up
  
• Know every post, rail personally; have made many changes over the years
  
• No barb wire anywhere. Do the fencing totally diferent.
  
• A larger area